For the past 16 months, the first class of chefs at the Smallman Galley have welcomed us in, served us all manner of dishes (from loaded fries and delicate toast, to savory Shrimp & Grits and healthy salads), and helped to develop a restaurant space that Pittsburgh is proud to call its own.
Stephen Eldridge (Provision PGH), Jacqueline Wardle (Josephine’s Toast), Jessica Lewis (Carota Cafe) and Rafael Vencio (Aubergine Bistro) helped to turn the Smallman Galley’s unique concept (four non-permanent restaurants, one galley hall) into a culinary destination in the Strip District, and the backdrop for Sunday brunches, after-work happy hours, and lunches with out-of-town guests.
Though we’ve has grown attached to the four pioneering Smallman chefs (and our favorite dishes from them), they were never meant to stay forever. The concept of the Smallman Galley is as a restaurant incubator, which means that a new crop of chefs has been chosen to take over the kitchen, and get the opportunity to develop their own restaurant concepts.
May 28 is the final day at the Smallman Galley for the original round of chefs. They will be serving brunch, and then celebrating with a party in the afternoon. In June, four new chefs will start service in the space.
What’s next for the original four? We caught up with them to find out where they’re heading, and what they’ll miss most about their time at the Smallman Galley.
Provision PGH’s Chef Stephen Eldridge
Cooking Before Smallman:
Steph Eldridge: “I worked in the front of the house for a number of years, and then I spent a summer cooking in Nantucket, and that really changed my life. It was a defining moment of knowing what I wanted to do.”
About the Smallman Experience:
SE: “It has been quite a year, and we’ve cooked over 15,000 burgers on a that tiny, cast-iron plate. I am just so grateful for the team I have now, and my wife. I couldn’t have done it without them.”
Favorite Memory:
SE: “Well, I literally burned my ass – you know, there isn’t a lot of space – but that’s not my favorite memory. We have been part of some cool parties. We held the reception for two people we had become friends with in the space, but I would have to say the relationships I’ve built here. Not only with other chefs, but with bar staff and the management as well. I wouldn’t have wanted to go through the beta group with any other three people.”
After Smallman:
Eldridge will be opening two new concepts in the new Smallman Galley space in Nova Place on the Northside. Provision PGH will return (don’t worry, you can still get your Provision Burgers), as well as a new Mexican concept called El Lugar. “We’re going to be doing ceviche, great tacos, sandwiches, salsa,” says Eldridge. “Every Monday at home we’ve been trying different recipes in preparation for the menu.”
Aubergine Bistro’s Chef Rafael Vencio
Cooking Before Smallman:
Rafael Vencio: “I really credit a lot of my industry experience to Legume [in Oakland]. I try to follow in their footsteps, and be part of the movement to focus on ingredients. I learned to work hard to maintain relationships with farmers and butchers. I like to honor that part of my experience.”
About the Smallman Experience:
RV: “It was very stressful for the first half. I was a little in everything, and I was trying to be so much, focusing on marketing, promoting my food, managing, and working the register. It got easier about halfway through. I learned a lot, and now I feel almost like a phoenix coming out of the ashes of the whole thing.”
Favorite Memory:
RV: “We did a Goose Island dinner where each brew was paired with a dish, and I really had to push my limits because I hadn’t it done before. It turned out really well, but it showed everything that I’ve learned as a chef. The response I got from the meal gave me more of an appreciation of the craft. There was that moment when everything I had been working for was on a plate, and I got to see people react.”
After Smallman:
Initially, Vencio will be focused on working with his partner, acclaimed Pittsburgh food and drink photographer, Adam Milliron, to learn more about food styling, and different ways to put a plate together. Looking forward, Vencio wants to introduce something new to the city of Pittsburgh. Being from the Philippines, he says he hopes to bring those flavors to the city, but is taking his time with the process, and making sure it is done right.
Josephine’s Toast’s Chef Jacqueline Wardle
Cooking Before Smallman:
Jacqueline Wardle: “I have been cooking since I was a little kid. I was homeschooled, and I knew that a longer lunch meant less school. I moved to Pittsburgh and had jobs around the city – I was with Big Burrito, and Isabela (on Grandview) prior to this.”
About the Experience:
JW: “It went as well as I anticipated it could, and I owe a lot of credit to my support team. We have had a great time. It will be interesting to see how it changes. I think the whole atmosphere is going to change.”
Favorite Memory:
JW: “I have so many memories, but Sunday brunches at Smallman Galley are for sure my favorite to look back on. Whether its the constant buzz of ticket machine in the morning or the way me and my crew break it down to the music while cooking. No matter what, we always find a way to have a great time on Sundays!”
After Smallman:
Wardle is staying in Pittsburgh, and looking for the perfect space to open her own concept. ”If it doesn’t happen, it won’t be for lack of trying,” she says. “Smallman helped me hone and learn my style of cuisine. It will be similar, but there are other things I want to try.”
Carota Cafe’s Chef Jessica Lewis
Cooking Before Smallman:
Jessica Lewis: “I worked for Heinz Field, and at the Commoner Downtown. I learned classic French cooking, but the first chef I worked with was Brazilian. I also swam competitively in college, and all of those things influenced my style. Especially as a swimmer, I saw food as fuel, and I really wanted to make vegetables a focus in this space.”
About the Smallman Experience:
JL: “I have always really liked the entertainment aspect of cooking, and the sense of community and family. I like being able to bring people together. I also learned that there is so much to do to run a small business, and I appreciate that more than ever.”
Favorite Memory:
JL: “I had the chance to invite my team out to Jen Urich’s farm (Root & Heart Farm) in Gibsonia, and get them out of the kitchen and connect to the products we were using. We planted leeks that day, and then later on I was able show them, ‘These are the leeks we planted!’ It is was great to make the connection between farm and food.”
After Smallman:
Lewis will be focused on working with her partner, Dennis Marron, on his two new restaurant’s, Merchant Oyster Company in Lawrenceville, and Or, the Whale at the new Distrikt Hotel Downtown.
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