“Is that a funnel cake?”
No, it’s not. But that’s the most common question Jason Kelly and Meredith Minkus get about their kürtőskalács.
Not everyone who stumbles upon their food truck, Steel City Chimneys, immediately identifies what couple is cooking, but they all agree on one thing – they look and smell delicious.
Steel City Chimneys is working to introduce Southwestern PA to kürtőskalács, a famous European treat.
These doughy rolls are common in Central and Eastern Europe, and have a robust history that dates back hundreds of years. Although they began as a festival treats, they are now an everyday snack in many countries.
If you’ve traveled through Europe, you may have seen them slow-roasting in the street under a different name. In English, people call them “chimney cakes,” but many countries have their own name and recipe for kürtőskalács. (For example, in the Czech Republic they are called trdelník.)
It is generally agreed upon that kürtőskalács originated from what is now the Hungarian-speaking region of Romania. Word spread about these flakey pastries, and kürtőskalács can now be found in different forms (and with different names) in countries as far off as Germany and Austria.
And now, thanks to Kelly and Minkus (who is half-Hungarian), they can also be found in Pittsburgh!
A European adventure was what led the couple to kürtőskalács. At the time, they followed a paleo diet, and avoided eating bread. However, even they couldn’t resist the sweet smell of kürtőskalács before a hike in Slovakia. They figured they were on vacation, and agreed to split one.
“We were like, ‘We shouldn’t have one, but they smell so good,’” laughs Minkus. “When we came back down the mountain we were like, ‘Do you want to get another one?’”
Immediately, they were hooked.
“It is so funny because we were hardcore paleo-ish diet followers, very into body-building and nutrition,” says Minkus. “In every little town from that point on we were like, “We have to try their variation, we have to try that variation.”
By the time they left Europe, they decided they needed to bring kürtőskalács back home to Pittsburgh.
“When I told my coworkers what we were doing they were like “you, bread?” laughs Minkus.
Kelly and Minkus took their new passion very seriously, and traveled to Slovenia to take private classes in kürtőskalács making and purchase authentic equipment.
Kürtőskalács are made from a sweet dough that is wrapped around a metal cone and rolled in sugar. The cones are basted with butter and roasted over charcoals on a spit until they are golden brown.
Traditionally, they are served plain, or with a thin layer of walnut or cinnamon. Steel City Chimneys offers these classic varieties, but also fun and seasonal flavors that have taken off with customers.
For the fall, Steel City Chimneys is currently offering “Maple Bacon,” and “Hot Honey Butter.” Other popular varieties include pumpkin spice, birthday cake, and Oreo.
“I am a traditionalist, but every time we are out people suggest different flavors. We have also been experimenting with savory options,” says Minkus.
In the past, Steel City Chimneys has worked with Pittsburgh Po’ Boy to make a savory kürtőskalács filled with and shrimp and grits. They have also partnered with Millie’s and served a kürtőskalács filled with ice cream.
In Europe, these pastries are usually made outside in the streets, but Steel City Chimneys operates from a food truck. However, they had a custom truck made that fits all of their equipment, and has a window so guests can see them be made – just as it is done in Europe.
The duo loves introducing Pittsburgh to kürtőskalács, but says it is especially exciting when someone recognizes them.
“We have gone to a couple of Hungarian festivals and met folks who emigrated to America and tell us they haven’t tasted one since they were kids,” says Minkus. “That is really special to us.”
However, to truly understand a kürtőskalács, you’ll have to try one for yourself.
“Anything I can tell you about it is best learned by tasting it.”
And no one needs convincing about that.
Phil says
Where is your truck located?
These sound so good. I need to try them.
A A says
We are so proud of you both! An accomplishment that is yours alone!!!
What delicacy is next on your agenda?
Love you!!
Paula says
Where is your truck located?
Mark says
My wife and I first met them and had our first chimney at Ligonier Country Market which is a Farmers Market each weekend in Ligonier PA during the Summer. Not only did the couple seem very nice but the chimney cakes are absolutely amazing! If you have not tried one yet, track them down, definitely worth it.
Dennis says
Just got back from Prague. Those Trdelnic (Chimney Cake) shops were everywhere.. There are more Trdelnik shops in Prague than there are Starbucks in Seattle. I usually resist sweets, but you could smell them everywhere. You’ve got a goldmine going there. Start franchising.